The Northwest Avalon

Outside St. John's are town and villages and villages and historic sites with the charm that distinguishes them from the capital city. One of the "must see" places on any visit is Cape Spear National Historic Site, the most easterly point in North America. To reach it, drive west on Water Street and you will see a sign indicating the left hand turn to Route 11. The road climbs over the Southside Hills, through the neighbourhood of Shea Heights and winds its way to the park and its lighthouse. Built in 1835, the Cape Spear Lighthouse is the oldest existing lighthouse in the province. The two storey wooden structure that served as a marine beacon from 1836 to 1955 is now a museum.

To the northeast of the city you will find a scenic route called the Marine Drive, which is off Logy Bay Road. It is one of the best points on the east coast for viewing or photographing the rugged Atlantic coastline.

In Newfoundland "logy" means heavy, dull or sluggish. The fish caught in this cove were large hence the name Logy Bay.

Logy Bay, Newfoundland by Brent McIntosh.

On the Marine Lab Road is the Ocean Sciences Centre (a part of Memorial University of Newfoundland) where a program of continuing oceanographic research is being carried out. Guided tours are regularly conducted with the seals being a popular attraction.

Marine Drive has great views of elevated cliffs, exposed beaches and wild seas all visible from your car. During the late spring icebergs are common, depending on the break up of the Arctic ice. Depending on the wind, pack ice can stretch to the horizon or if the wind shifts it can disappear out to sea in hours.

Photo from Ben Hansen's Newfoundland and Labrador

Middle Cove Beach is a traditional area for the "townies" to catch capelin.

Torbay was the scene of a strategic military manoeuvre in 1762. On September 13 of that year, British forces under Colonel Amherst used this village as his base of operation to retake St. John's from the French army that had captured it. The British expedition landed at Torbay and marched overland to outflank the French and overwhelm them. Torbay was likely named by Devonshire fishermen after a place of the same name in England.

Another historically interesting community along the way is Flat Rock, which dates back at least to 1689. The name of this fishing community comes from the flat rocks around the cove which made ideal places to dry salt cod. A local point of interest is the Grotto, a shrine to our Lady of Lourdes. Blessed by Pope John Paul II, it is the largest religious shrine east of Montreal.

Weathered Boat I Acrylic on Canvas, 20" x 24", 1994

By: Sharon Puddester

A local story centres around the wreck of the "Waterwitch" in 1875. When the ship went aground in a storm with 25 people on board, Alfred Moores, a resident performed a daring rescue which saved 11 people. He allowed himself to be lowered to the ship by a rope from an overhanging cliff so that he could carry the people to safety.

At the end of the road you will find a dirt road that leads to a rugged headland. The road to Cape St. Francis is rough but passable so use caution. Cape St. Francis is found on the earliest maps in existence, a chart from 1527. It is believed to have been named by Gaspar Corte-Real during his voyage of 1501. All this area is good place to pick blueberries and partridge berries in late August.

At Pouch Cove you can take a left turn to visit the Marine Drive Provincial Park for a freshwater swim or a picnic. Continuing along to Bauline, a fishing village on Conception Bay. The hill above Bauline provides a panoramic view of Conception Bay and the northeast Avalon. The paved road loops back to Torbay or there is a dirt road which leads to Portugal Cove.

"Going overseas" means a trip to Bell Island via a 20 minute ferry ride from Portugal Cove. There is a tiny,wonderful fish and chip place in the cove called Gordon's. Check it out for lunch.

Bell Island by Barbaraa Milne.

Photo from Brian Bursey's Exploring Newfoundland

Bell Island is a huge reddish rock in the middle of Conception Bay. The waters around the island saw the first enemy action in Newfoundland waters during World War II. On September 5,1942, U- 513, a German submarine, sank the S.S.Sananaga and the Lord Strathcona at their berths while waiting to load iron ore from the mines on Bell Island. A monument to the sailors who lost their lives and the Bell Islanders who rescued the survivors stands in Lance Cove on the island. For more on this story Steve Neary's Enemy On Our Doorstep chronicles events.

Lance Cove was first settled in the 1750's. The founder of Cupids, John Guy was the first to notice the iron in the rocks but mining did not start until 1895.

The pastoral community of 350 that occupied the best farmland on the Avalon Peninsula was transformed into a bustling mining community of 14,000. The mine was phased out in 1966 due to low grade ore and changes in the steel industry. The inaccessible mine shafts stretch for miles underneath the bay waters. In memory of those bygone days, the town now sports several large murals that depict events and people from Bell Island's past.

Photo from the Newfoundland and Labrador 1993 Travel Guide

Bell Island, Little Bell Island and Kelly's Island are the three main islands in Conception Bay. Legend hold that Kelly's Island was the rendezvous spot of Captain Kelly a pirate who terrorized the trade routes in the 17th century.

Back in Portugal Cove you can make your way south to St. Phillips and from there back to St. John's via Thorburn Road. As you return to the city you can relax at the Rotary Park for a swim, to go boating or a hike.

To Scenic Tours: Avalon Region