The South Coast

Visiting the south coast of Newfoundland is like stepping back in time 50 years. During the first half of this century, there were few if any roads in rural areas, and people were isolated in their outport communities. It is still like that on the south coast and residents prefer it that way.

The years of isolation have helped people retain a simpler lifestyle, where there is always time for friends and visitors. Their dependence on the sea for their livelihood and transportation has bred a hardy race of mariners who ply these waters.

On the coast's west end, communities are linked by road between Port aux basques and Harbour Le Cou. There is also a road to Burgeo, and another to the Connaigre Peninsula. At the eastern end of the coast, Terrenceville is connected to the main highway system. But for seven tiny communities, the coastal boats are the only connection to the world.

If you want to visit the south coast it requires planning and reasonable lead times. The coastal boat only carries people and cargo, Cabins are available only in winter and there is only limited food service on board. There is no advance booking for the coastal boat, but no one has ever been left standing on the dock.

From Port aux Basques, the coastal boat heads east to its first stop La Poile, a fishing community of 200 residents. The name comes form the French word for soldiers who often patrolled this area. The next port of call is Grand Bruit, which is French for "great noise." Fewer than 100 people live near its noisy, 305 metre cascade.

Next stop is Burgeo, then on to Ramea, an island community of 1,000 residents. The towns name is believed to be derived from the French word for branches and refers to the island's many streams. Ramea was known to early sailors and was an early fishing station. American fishermen held rights here and in other places along the Newfoundland coast in the nineteenth century. Ship building and outfitting were major industries here, and local trading companies did business in Europe, the West Indies and South America.

Grey River is a community of just over 200 people backed by hills that rise to 1,000 feet. A spectacular narrow passage leads to a sheltered basin. This community was originally called Little River, and when measles broke out here in the early 1900s, the people wired St. John's for medicine. It was dispatched, but was sent to another community called Little River on the northeast coast. Many people died as a result and after that diaster the name was changed.

Next along the coast is Francois, which the residents pronounce "Fransway." Just over 200 people live of the narrow strip of land at the head of the fjord. The town is completely hidden from and the large hill behind the village is called The Friar. There are few tress and no farmland, but the plentiful fishing sustained the community.

McCallum's harbour is sheltered by nearby islands and though the French fished the area in the 1500s, the town is named for the governor of Newfoundland from 1898 to 1901. Permanent settlement began after the Seven Years War when St. Pierre was ceded to the French and the English families there were resettled to the south coast.

Gaultois a road-free town located on a large island in Hermitage Bay. With a winter fishery from its ice free port, the population of over 500, makes this is one of the largest communities on the coast. From here you can take the ferry to Hermitage or continue on the coastal boat. Gaultois was first settled by the French and its name is believed to be an old Norman word for pinnacles, of which there are several in the area. The area was also occupied by aboriginal inhabitants perhaps two thousand years ago.

The boat then stops at Hermitage, Harbour Breton and English Harbour West which have been covered in Tour 4.

Then its on to Rencontre East in the heart of Fortune Bay, which takes its name from a French word meaning "meeting place." A molybdenite mine operated here for a few years in the 1930s, but its roots are in the fishery.

The final port of call is Terrenceville. Settled in the 18th century as a fishing and farming community, it was in the early 1900s a relay point for the south coast telegraph line. This is a good place to see hawks, bald eagles and geese.

To Scenic Tours: Central Region