Kayaking

Canoe Adventures

Article written by David A. Snow from Wildland Tours, in St. John's, Newfoundland

INTRODUCTION

For thousands of years, the waterways of North America were the primary routes of travel and exploration. These were the highways to the interior where the caribou roamed and waterfowl nested. Many 20th-century travellers have forgotten these first roads as the automobile has reshaped the continent; but the waterways of Newfoundland and Labrador can provide exciting new routes and a lifetime of exploration for people interested in recapturing the flavor of these earlier times. This province's rivers also provide a great adventure for anglers, wildlife watchers, and people interested in peaceful exercise.

The Island of Newfoundland is home to more than 11,000 ponds and over 200 large rivers. Huge tracts of forest, rugged Appalachian-chain mountains, and open barren lands provide a visually stunning landscape for the canoeist to enjoy. Labrador is three times the size of Newfoundland and boasts larger rivers and some of the world's last remote wilderness adventures.

Newfoundland and Labrador hold so many world-class freshwater adventures that it is impossible to describe them all. Very little has been written about most of the province's waterways. The purpose of this site is to expose river travellers to the joys of canoeing individual rivers and streams while providing some geographic and historic background for each watercourse listed. A long voyage is safest with wise preparations, proper topographic maps, and skilled companions.

Keep in mind that conditions here can sometimes change unexpectedly. Long journeys, even those on ponds and lakes, should be planned with the weather in mind. This province is famous for its winds, fogs, and variable weather conditions. High winds can cause lakes to become treacherous and impassable. Fog can cause important landmarks to disappear. Flooding, submerged rocks, fallen trees, beaver dams, and human activity can provide additional challenges even for the most experienced canoeist. Always prepare for changes in the weather.

In Newfoundland, many rivers change from swift flowing torrents fed by the spring run-offs to slow-moving summer rivers that only require a leisurely stroke to avoid an occasional submerged hazard. Many exciting springtime canoe routes become slow or unusable in the summer. Heavy rainfalls can change the character of the waters quickly and dramatically. Always wear a personal flotation device.

There is also the potential for some conflict of interest between canoeist and salmon anglers. Salmon are rarely affected by passing canoes, but fishermen may be highly disturbed. A few short portages around favorite pools or simply keeping clear and quiet are worthwhile practices for mutual peace of mind.

Part of the fun of paddling is looking for changes, and making new discoveries. Don't wander aimlessly along a pond or river: enjoy the plants, animals, geography, geology, and thousands of years of history. How many other paddles have dipped into the waters around you, and what were the fates of these earlier adventurers? This site will heighten your awareness of the pleasures and perils of a few selected provincial rivers and ponds, yet only experience, sound judgement, training, and precautionary safety measures will assure you of a safe, fun trip.

PLANNING YOUR VOYAGE

There are a number of excellent books and canoe safety courses available. Knowledge of the art of canoeing is the most important thing you can take with you. Proper equipment, trip checklists, and common sense will help ensure a well-planned and safe voyage.

Always choose a safe place to put your canoe in the water - a shallow, calm sea for launching your canoe is best. When in doubt, don't go out. When you are travelling a river, make sure you know where you are going and how long it should take you to get there. Water levels play a major role on most Newfoundland rivers. Most provincial river systems require high water levels. Travelling in the spring, early summer or soon after a heavy rainfall helps to ensure suitable water levels.

Topographic maps are available from offices of the provincial Department of Natural Resources in Corner Brook, Gander, and St. John's. Park offices can also be sources of useful information, as well as map-selling shops: maps provide vital information to people planning a long voyage.

Every year the province produces a Travel Guide. This features a listing of available services including restaurants, boat rentals, tour guides, and accommodations. The Newfoundland and Labrador Travel Guide is available at many tourist chalets and visitor centres, or by contacting the Department of Tourism, Culture, and Recreation through the address below:

The Department of Tourism, Culture, and Recreation
 Attention: Web Master
P.O. Box 8700
St. John's, Newfoundland
Canada
A1B 4J6
Email: info@tourism.gov.nf.ca
Phone: 1-800-563-6353

The Travel Guide is your best source or written information about services available throughout the province.

GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR CANOEING IN NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

  1. Always watch the weather. It is very changeable.
  2. Plan your voyage carefully. Most rivers and ponds do have outfitters or other services. Maps, warm clothes, and extra food - all protected by waterproof cases or plastic - are necessary. Use your maps to identify access points along the route. People should know your plans and expected arrival times. Some rivers including the Churchill, Terra Nova, Bay du Nord, and Main should not be attempted without skilled companions.
  3. Respect the rivers. Remember, there are vast amounts of wilderness here. use your common sense. There are no warning signs posted on the rivers. Losing or destroying your canoe can mean days of difficult walking before you can get to a phone. In Labrador the phones are even further away. Research your location before you venture out.
  4. Watch the water levels. Many Newfoundland river routes are best done in high water. Some rivers, including several listed on this page, are unusable during periods of low water levels.
  5. Safety first. Don't forgot a first aid kit, insect repellent, rain wear, warm clothing, and an extra paddle. Always wear a personal floatation device. Have painters (safety ropes) tied to the bow and stern of your canoe. If you are camping along the way, think about bears and package your food carefully. Store food away from your tent. Another page in this series discusses Newfoundland's mammals and provides information about dealing with black bears.
  6. Respect the land and river. Take all garbage out, and leave no mark on the land.
  7. Check the province's annual Angler's Guide for information about fishing seasons, bag limits, and guide requirements for non-residents . Permits are need for camping in National Parks.

RIVER CLASSIFICATION

In order to provide a guideline for canoeists, an international grading system is used to assess a river's difficulty. This system of classifying rivers provides a guideline only. Gentle ripples on a river during low water levels can become dangerous rapids in high water or flood conditions. A river or rapid is usually classified during average flow conditions. The Newfoundland routes listed here have been classified by experienced canoeists; but you should always use your own judgement, knowledge, and common sense before attempting a difficult passage.

This document uses river classifications based on an international scale of river difficulty. These are summarized as:
Class 1 = easy
Class 2 = medium - challenging for inexperienced paddlers
Class 3 = difficult - training and practice are essential

Class 1: Easy

Class 2: Novice

Class 3: Intermediate

Rivers and rapids beyond class 3 should not be attempted in open canoes.

SOME NEWFOUNDLAND CANOE ROUTES

The Grand Codroy
(Class 1; part-day - 2-day trips available)

This attractive west coast river is easily accessible from the Trans Canada Highway (TCH or Route 1)and a number of other roads and trails. It requires high water levels and is usually considered to be a springtime or high water canoe route. Both the North Branch and South Branch of the Grand Codroy can be accessed from the highway, and there are a variety of suitable put-in points. Sites near the communities of Codroy Pond and North Branch offer access to the North Branch of the Grand Codroy, while sites near the communities of Coal Brook and South Branch provide put in spots for the South Branch of the Grand Codroy.

From these starting areas the river takes the paddler away from the road and through right woodlands and some farmlands. In general the Grand Codroy is a safe, shallow system that provides beautiful distant views of the Long Range Mountains. The Grand Codroy is a scheduled salmon river and provides some great fishing opportunities. Moose and geese are the most frequently spotted wildlife, but lots of other animals can also be seen.

During periods of high water the portion of the river between the North Branch Bridge on the TCH and the community of South Branch offers an exciting 4 or 5 hour journey featuring swift-flowing Class 1 waters. After South Branch the river's shallow depths and smooth flow provide a leisurely paddling experience with some wilderness-watching opportunities. Trips ranging in length from a few hours to two days can be planned on this system.

A 28-kilometre journey form the community of South Branch to the river's mouth can be accomplished with one good day of paddling. Grand Codroy Provincial Park, located 11 kilometres from the river mouth, offers serviced campsites, drinking water, and an accessible finishing point for folks interested in a part-day excursion. Canoeists travelling to the river mouth will be impressed by the white sandy beaches and sand dunes, but should be cautious of high winds if they choose to leave the estuary for some exploration out on the ocean.

The Humber
(Class 1 - 2; part-day - 5-day trips available)

Newfoundland's second largest rivers is perhaps its most famous. A huge watershed, beautiful scenery, trophy salmon, Big Falls in Sir Richard Squires Memorial Park, and the Island of Newfoundland's largest lakes ensure that this watershed offers a huge variety of canoeing and sightseeing experiences. There are numerous put-in and take-out points for canoe voyages, but finding dry campsites can be a challenge since there is lots of marsh along much of the Humber.

The Upper Humber can be accessed from numerous woods roads off Route 420 or Route 422. During periods of high water, a trip from Deadwater Brook to Adies Pond and on to Big Falls in Sir Richard Squires Memorial Park takes two or three days and offers attractive wilderness canoeing. The route between Adies Pond and Big Falls is navigable all summer long and also provides a great wilderness adventure of up to three days. Expect to see moose and a great variety of waterfowl. There are some Class 2 rapids at Bear Reef, three kilometres above Big Falls. These can be lined or portaged. Exit this part of the Humber on the left side above Big Falls. People ending their journey here leave Squires Park via Route 422.

The route between Big Falls and Little Falls, which is approximately five kilometres long, is quite rocky during periods of low water levels. Canoeist travelling the whole watershed sometimes portage between Big Falls and Little Falls before re-entering the system. The access road to Squires Park (Route 422) aids with this portage.

The canoe route between Little Falls and Deer Lake features some Class 1 rapids and white water but is mostly flat. There is a huge volume of water in the Humber, and the river boasts a strong current with water depths typically more than two metres. This route features forests, mashes, lots of ducks, and some of the world's finest salmon pools. It can be travelled in one long day; but if you're interested in angling or exploring, give yourself two days. There are a variety of popular take-out points on this route including the communities of Reidville and Nicholsville. The Upper Humber ends in Deer Lake, Newfoundland's fourth largest lake. This lake can also be used as a take-out point. high winds can make travel on the lake dangerous.

The Humber can also be used by expert or well-experienced paddlers for a day trip between the western end of Deer Lake and the end of the Humber near Corner Brook. The river runs deep and fast with a strong, dangerous current along this route. There are salmon pools, some high cliffs, and numerous cottages. Most take-out points will involve cooperation with a cottage owner.

The Main River
(Class 2-3; 5 - 8 day trips available)

The wilderness qualities of the Main River have resulted in its being nominated as a Canadian Heritage River. Marshes, lakes, barrens, rich forests, grasslands, and a variety of plant and animal life offer an always-changing panorama of photographic subjects. While it is a brave photographer who will risk a camera in the Class 2 and 3 rapids of the Main River, many skilled canoeist seek out this demanding river for the nonstop excitement, steep grade, and challenging technical waters found along the route. The Main River causes your adrenalin to pump! This river requires an expert level of skills; and during flood conditions some of the canyons can produce Class 4 or 5 rapids.

The headwaters of the Main are in the Long Range Mountains, the continent's northern extreme of the Appalachian Range. From its headwaters the Main travels through examples of most provincial landforms including barren, grassland, and forest before reaching the Atlantic.

Access to the headwaters of the Main River is limited to floatplanes, which can be chartered at Deer Lake or further away. The canoe trip usually starts at Four Ponds Lake located in the highlands just east of Gros Morne National Park. The voyage from here is 57 kilometres long as you travel from an elevation of above 400 metres to sea level at the river's mouth near Sops Arm, White Bay.

The Main is a challenging wilderness river that can only be attempted during periods of high water. The upper river includes many boulders, channels, and rapids that have to be portaged or lined. this boulder garden requires expert level technical skills. After a calm 6.5 kilometre length known as the Big Steady, the Main once again becomes rougher. One single stretch includes four kilometres of rapids. Most are runable, but some require lining or portages. Scouting of each river bend and rapid is necessary for most of the river.

The last portion of the Main is often considered to be the most exciting. It can be attempted as a day trip and accessed by a woods road from Sops Arm, but it still requires an expert level of skills. Locally known as The Canyon, the 23 kilometre valley features steep cliffs and a fast downhill ride. The slope in the canyon is 11 metres per kilometre - a wild ride! Always exercise caution. If you tip over in the Canyon, there is no shoreline so you will end up swimming many kilometres. Heavy rains can turn the Canyon into a Class 4 or Class 5 river.

The Main is a wonderful white water adventure for the experienced canoeist. It is not suitable for the novice paddler. Skilled companions, proper planning, and high levels of technical ability are required before this trip can be considered. The wilderness quality and whitewater challenges do, however, give the Main a special appeal among canoeing experts. In addition to its beautiful, challenging days, evenings and nights along the Main provide visually stunning wilderness camping. Expect to take at least five days - more if salmon angling ranks high in the daily plans.

The Gander
(Class 1-2; part-day - 5-day trips available)

The Island of Newfoundland's third largest river has been used as an inland highway for centuries. Today the tradition continues as canoes and world-famous Gander River Boats shuttle people and consumer goods between Gander Bay and Glenwood. The Gander River adventure can be divided into two separate routes: the Northwest Gander and Lower Gander (known to most people simply as the Gander River).

In the spring the Gander can offer a multi-day adventure beginning where the Northwest Gander River intersects the Bay D'Espoir highway (Route 360). Several woods roads also offer access to the Northwest Gander. The route, which is popular with prospectors who pan for gold and with salmon anglers, goes through huge tracts of wilderness featuring both forest and barrens before reaching Gander Lake. There are two rapids and a boulder garden on the Northwest Gander that may have to be lined. This portion of the watershed offers a high-water adventure. There are many long rocky shoals on the Northwest Gander that prevent paddling during low water conditions. Gander Lake is a large, deep, cold lake that can only be paddled during calm wind conditions.

The Lower Gander, which starts at Glenwood, drains out of Gander Lake. It is a well-travelled waterway route. The Lower Gander's high volume of water ensures it is always welcoming to the experienced canoeist.

The river water is cold and quite deep in some areas so you should always exercise caution.

The most popular Gander River trip starts at the bridge in Glenwood on the Trans Canada Highway (Route 1). Vehicles are often left in this area. The journey usually ends at the Causeway in George's Point in the community of Gander Bay (Route 330). From the haulout point it usually takes an hour or more to drive back to the put-in point in Glenwood.

The Gander is mostly a Class 1 river, but within a half hour of Glenwood paddlers will encounter Little Chute and Big Chute, where the river class can go up to 2 or 3. any canoes, lots of equipment, and a few human lives have been lost at these spots. Although navigable by experienced paddlers, people often portage or line their canoe through these churning waters. Following Little Chute and Big Chute, the Gander meanders its way down to Gander Bay through a series of four ponds. Winds on these open areas can slow down a journey dramatically. The lower section of this river is known as Snake Rattle or Sunshine Pool. Here a boulder garden creates technical waters that require the paddler to manoevre around the rocks carefully This is another area where canoes can be damaged.

The Lower Gander is a journey that requires planning and preparation. Under ideal conditions, a very experienced paddler can do the 50 kilometre trip in a long day - starting at sunrise and ending at sundown. It is always best, however, to plan on at least a two-day trip. Definitely plan on a longer voyage if salmon angling or high winds are a factor. There is a great deal of development along some parts of the river, while other parts feature some of the province's tallest trees and most diverse forests. Watch for boulders, many of which are marked, along the route. There is a great deal of wetland and marsh along the shore so campers have to plan on spending some time searching for suitable camping sites. There are a number of outfitters offering accommodations in lodges, and these usually require reservations.

The Gander is a busy river with lots of riverboats and anglers, but moose and waterfowl are commonly seen. A voyage down this river offers a journey into the past when rivers were highways. There are also outfitters available who can provide canoes and guide services. Outfitters are also available to help with shuttling people and canoes, but such services should be arranged prior to starting a trip. A book entitled Rattles and Steadies, Tales of a Gander River Man by Gary Saunders captures much of this river's special flavour.

The Terra Nova
(Class 2-3; part-day - 4-day trips available)

Newfoundland's seventh largest river offers salmon and trout fishing, exciting rapids, picturesque waterfalls, some large lakes, and scenic river valley, and beautiful forests. Moose, caribou, and waterfowl are also abundant along this waterway. This demanding route requires expertise and planning. There are many ledges and rapids requiring the canoe to be lined or portaged plus three large waterfalls. Depending upon the put-in point, there can be more than a dozen short portages (none longer than 600 metres). Portions of this river are demanding with Class 1, 2, and 3 white water.

To enter this system, travel the woods roads to the west of Route 301. Route 301 leaves the Trans Canada Highway (Route 1) in Terra Nova national Park and ends in the community of Terra Nova. The woods roads lead into a number of suitable starting points including Lake St. John and Kepenkeck Lake. The route can take up to four days before the trip ends at the Trans Canada Highway just west of Terra Nova National Park or at the community of Glovertown in Bonavista Bay.

The Terra Nova is a large, deep river and may be travelled from spring to autumn. There is usually a good volume of water in the river, but trips should be postponed if it is an especially dry summer. The Terra Nova has a long history, rich in Beothuk and Micmac lore, together with traditions of the early forestry industry. In the early days it was part of a well-travelled river highway between the south coast of Newfoundland and Bonavista Bay. This route, which has been used for hundreds of years, takes travellers from the Terra Nova to the Bay du Nord River and on to the Conne River. Today the Bay du Nord is a nominated Canadian Heritage River celebrated for its unspoiled wilderness qualities. During periods of high water, this waterway route through the interior offers an unforgettable 5-to-10 day adventure. Like the Terra Nova, the Bay du Nord is a demanding river requiring an expert level of paddling skill; and every year both rivers provide world-class wilderness paddling adventures.

The Terra Nova on its own is a technically challenging journey for the experienced paddler. It can also be dangerous and is not a good river for the novice. To ensure safety, travel with skilled companions in a second canoe. The Terra Nova is demanding for all canoeists, and some paddlers consider it more appropriate for kayaking than canoeing. Despite the technical challenges, most experienced paddlers consider it to be one of the province's finest canoe adventures.

Sandy Pond / Dunphy's Pond
(Pond; 1 hour - 2-day trips available)

Although Newfoundland and Labrador boasts some of the best wilderness canoeing available anywhere, there are not many sites where you can rent a canoe and explore a pond with the family. Sandy Pond in Terra Nova National Park is one of the few places where canoes can be rented for an hour-long or part-day excursion. This is a safe, sheltered area where anybody can paddle, provided the wind speeds are reasonable.

A longer expedition starting at Sandy Pond is available for those interested in looking for moose, muskrats, and waterfowl along the banks of the National Park's ponds. A well-marked portage of 400 metres is all that is required to take a canoe from the gullies at the west end of Sandy Pond to Beachy Pond. This small, sheltered pond opens into larger Dunphy's Pond. The return trip from Sandy Pond to Dunphy's Pond provides a relaxing 4-5 hour, 10 kilometre paddler. Camping and hiking trails are available around Dunphy's Pond. Campers must get a permit from Park Headquarters before starting their trip. For people interested in a longer journey, an 800-metre portage from Dunphy's Pond leaves the park and leads into Pitt Pond. From here you can travel on to the Terra Nova River watershed in search of caribou and osprey. Continuing on to the Terra Nova changes this route from a leisurely family paddle to an extremely challenging canoe route. There are several take-out points including the TCH.

The Interpretation Centre in the National Park can provide permits, maps, and advice about these and other canoe routes in the National Park area.

Rocky River
(Class 1; 4-10 hour trips available)

The Rocky River is the largest system on the Avalon Peninsula of Newfoundland. It is well-named since it is littered with boulders and huge portions of bedrock. The Rocky is best travelled during periods of high water, usually after spring runoff. A trip during times of low water levels turns a pleasurable 6-hour journey into a two-day excursion with fully half the time spent portaging the canoe over the river's wide, shallow shoals and boulders.

The Rocky River, which has been the focus of an intensive salmon enhancement project by the Salmonid Association of Eastern Newfoundland, is now a scheduled salmon river. If you want to try fishing, check the regulations to ensure it is open to angling. The Rocky is often closed.

The Rocky River journey starts near the church in the southern part of the community of Markland on Route 81 Here the tributary is known as the Hodge's River. If you are interested in a longer journey that can include overnight camping, start at Whitbourne and paddle through the system of ponds until you reach the Hodge's. The Hodge's River leaves Markland and quickly finds its way through the spruce and fir forests of the Avalon. Moose, ducks, geese, and a variety of song birds are common sights s the river winds south and joins the Rocky. Otters and mink are also around, feeding on the river's abundant stocks of freshwater mussels. There re a few sections where Route 81 can be viewed at a distance of three or four kilometres. Other than these exceptions, this route turns into a wilderness journey that ends just before the two waterfalls at the mouth of the river on Route 91, 1.5 kilometres from Colinet. The voyage ends just above the waterfalls - you will see the highway bridges and hear the roar of these impassable waterfalls. There are access roads leading away from both sides of the river bank. When the journey is finished, be sure to take the time to view the salmon ladder and to look for salmon jumping at the base of the waterfalls.

The Rocky River has numerous boulders and shoals that will dent or damage fragile craft. Nobody has ever paddled this river without hitting them on many occasions. Most of the route is suitable for the novice paddler or family excursions, except during dangerous periods of flooding. There are very few areas where water depth exceeds 2 metres, but there are hundreds of areas where a canoe may scrape the river floor.

LABRADOR

Remote Labrador has less access and fewer services than Newfoundland, but there are opportunities for both family adventures and challenging wilderness excursions that rank among the best in the world. There is only one major river route that can be accessed by car, yet there are outfitters offering services to people interested in exploring the wild Labrador rivers. In Labrador there are many exciting adventures that can take experienced paddlers to the limits of their skills and abilities.

The Churchill River
(Class 1-2; 5-6 day trips available)

This breathtaking river travels through the interior of Labrador. Tall trees, abundant wildlife, some sandy beaches, and beautiful wilderness assure that this route will never be forgotten. There is one lake and four hazardous rapids, three of which should be lined or portaged, yet most of the journey involves easy paddling with few problems. Muskrat Falls, 30 kilometres upstream from the journey's end at Goose Bay, must be portaged. Travel in Labrador is via route 500, which is accessed from Quebec's route 389.

Put-in below the Tailrace of the Churchill Falls Dam just outside the community of Churchill Falls. If the weather is on your side, this wilderness journey will end five days and 315 kilometres later at Goose Bay. Bring lots of film, and prepare for lots of insects.

There are four sets of rapids along the way. As with most rivers, the class of rapids can change with water levels. Mouni Rapids, located 120 kilometres from the start point, are downstream from Winokapau Lake. They are usually class 2 and can be portaged around or paddled river right. The Minipi Rapids, where Minipi River joins the Churchill, are class 3 or higher and must be lined or portaged. This series of rapids is located 195 kilometres from the start point. A small rapid just above the point where Sponge River enters the Churchill, 205 kilometres from the start, is class 4 and must be lined. The Gull Island rapids, located 225 kilometres into the route, are class 3 and 4, which require lining and portaging. Muskrat Falls, 30 kilometres upstream from Goose Bay, must be portaged. Exit river left. The journey can end at Goose Bay or at the road near Muskrat Falls. It is close to a full day's journey by car back to the starting point.

NEWFOUNDLAND'S 11,000 PONDS

(Otherwise known as 11,000 holes in 11,000 boats.)
Newfoundland is said to contain 11,000 ponds. Labrador is also home to many more ponds and lakes. Hundreds of the province's ponds are accessible from the provincial highways, and many can provide a route to more distant waterways where wildlife, large fish, and solitude can be found. From the ponds of St. John's to the Avalon Wilderness Area, the raised inland fjords of the Northern Peninsula, and the Labrador roadways, there are thousands of kilometres of wilderness waterways awaiting your paddle. The province has thousands of safe, family adventures that require little expertise, provided the rules of safety are follow. There are also plenty of more rugged experiences waiting for the hardcore adventurer.

Pond and lake, river and stream, freshwater fjord, and sheltered coastline - all represent great canoeing and kayaking opportunities. Come and explore!

This document was transcribed by permission from "A Self-Driving Guide: Canoe Adventures", and is available from the Government of Newfoundland and Labrador Department of Tourism, Culture, & Recreation.
Article written by David A. Snow from Wildland Tours, in St. John's, Newfoundland
Watercolour Illustration by Ventzeslav Vesselinov
Transcribed for HTML by Erin McKee
Printed in Canada byDicks & Company Ltd, 1996
ISBN: 1-55146-041-6

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